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22 year veteran, 2 years of vocational training. A.S.E. certified Master collision repair/refinish technician. I-CAR certified. 17 yrs. GM experience. I can answer most questions related to automotive body repairs, ranging from small scratch repairs all the way up to the most extensive collision repairs. I can expertly advise people on what to expect from their body shop experience, right down to what self repairs should, and should not, be done. Lastly, I can advise tricks and tips for classic car restoration, such as lead repairs. SORRY, I DO NOT DO ONLINE ESTIMATES OR GIVE PARTS PRICES!! BE PREPARED FOR THE CORRECT ANSWER- NOT THE ONE YOU WANT TO HEAR. I won't B.S. you, or sugar coat answers. Just plain, hard facts.
Just about every major insurance company in NW Ohio
I enjoy taking peoples wrecked cars and returning them back to the owner, in a better shape than the were in before being wrecked. Nothing is more satisfying than hearing them say "Wow, you cant tell it was wrecked!"
I hope to learn 1 thing every day untill my time comes to put down the paint gun, and let the next generation take over. Hopefully, I can guide a few of these young people to be caring, professional technicians.
Most bodymen make under 40,000. a year. We are paid by the job, not by the hour. We're usually paid no overtime, yet almost all are required to work over 40 hours. We tend to get 6 paid holidays a year. It's a dirty, stressful job, requiring at least 20,000 dollars worth of tools that we purchase out of our own pockets. There is no gold watch at the end, either.
Insurance companies insist upon using used, welded panels from salvage vehicles, such as quarter panels and unibody structure. These parts are almost always damaged. (90% of these parts come from vehicles that were totaled out by an insurance company.) The parts are difficult to remove from the donor car, and they usually contain rust, undercoat, and seam sealers that interfere with welding.
I would use a torch, BUT- if you are replacing quarters, they were generally never sectioned at the lead seam. The lead seam should be left intact, and the quarter sectioned in below the lead seam somewhere
I don't think my corvette is where I would try to learn how to do my first fiberglasss repair. Therea are many good corvette restoration books out there- I suggest buying one. Fiberglass is fickle and
This is an easy one. You either need to have them attempt to power buff them out at a local detail or body shop, touch them up with a brush and some touch up brush, or have it professionally painted. I
Dave, it depends upon your wallet. The best way would be to replace the roof skin with a donor skin- but it's pricey, and requires removal of all the glass. You can just have a piece of sheet metal welded
If you paint the underside with single stage, and the exterior with 2 stage- especially if it's a metallic- you will regret it. I would base- clear the whole car. As far as edges, you need to roll back
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