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Rock Climbing/Expert Profile

Jeff Vargen

U.S.

Available

Expertise

I`ve been climbing on and off for 25 years, mostly in Yosemite Valley and the Tuolumne Meadows region of Yosemite. I can tell you about the best climbs in the 5.7 - 5.11 range. Also familiar with Berkeley Rocks and Mt. Diablo in the SF Bay Area.

Experience in the area

I climb mostly Trad but do some Sport. I've done routes on every dome in Tuolumne and can give you some tips on route finding, time of year and day to do them.

Publications

Climbing Magazine

Average Ratings

Recent Reviews from Users

User	Date	K	C	P	Comments
Steve	06/24/11	10	10	10	Thanks Jeff
Ivan	10/28/10	10	10	10
shawn	11/05/09	10	10	10
gaurav	11/06/08	6	8	10
gaurav	11/04/08	5	10	8

Recent Answers from Jeff Vargen

2010-10-25 Workout:

I would not worry about muscle weight. If you are bouldering and gym climbing than upper body strength is very important. If you begin climbing outdoors then leg strength is essential. Most important

2009-11-09 grip strength:

Tarek, Like all training you should examine your goals. You say you want to increase grip and forearm strength. What type of climbing are you doing or want to do that requires this kind of training.

2009-11-04 Mt. Diablo area bouldering:

Hi Shawn, Mt Diablo has a couple spots to climb/boulder. I would say the bouldering is not great as without a rope it is dangerous. All routes can be top roped. The main and most developed is known

2009-01-23 Rope Inspection: kink:

Could the kinks have come from storage in the car or a pack and are really indentations from something resting upon it for a long period? Was it stood upon while sitting on small rocks? If they did not

2008-11-17 static vs. dynamic:

Dynamic. Dynamic ropes stretch a bit and allow for safer falls. The ropes because of the stretch are easier on your body and less susceptible to rope breakage. Static ropes are used for rappelling, jumaring

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