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I can answer all questions related to the art of modeling land based military miniatures. I can also answer, to a limited degree, the art of model photography.
I have been building and showing scale military models for over 35 years. I am a regular contributor to Military Miniatures in Review, a quarterly publication dedicated to the art.
I have been a contributing author for the magazine Military Miniatures in Review for the past five years. I also contribute to Tamiya Model Magazine and AFV Modeler.
I have completed postdoctoral training in orthodontics.
I have received numerous gold, and best of category, as well as Best of Show, awards at both the local and national level.
| User | Date | K | C | P | Comments |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chris | 01/04/12 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Thank you for that clarification and suggestion ..... |
| Kenneth | 08/15/11 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Thanks for the quick reply! |
| Scott | 07/28/10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Thank you, thats what i needed to ..... |
| Kim | 12/15/08 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Thanks! |
Hello Chris, Commercial decals are offset printed on decal paper, then spot coated over the inks with a clear layer to hold complex shapes together. There are no home based solutions that can duplicate
Hello Martin, While I am not familiar with the series of which you speak, it is not uncommon for manufacturers to test the waters so to speak by advertising subjects they are considering for future
Hello Kenneth, Sorry to tell you this, but anything that would remove the glue will do worse damage to the surface. The only thing you could do on a smooth panel is to sand it off with finer and finer
Hello Scott, It really depends on what you are using for your clear coat. If you are using an acrylic based product and you are applying is sparingly, you would be ok to leave clear parts installed
Chris, Unfortunately you have to learn by trial and error. Each brush is different, and many variables, such as paint thickness, air pressure play a part. There is no substitute for practice! I recommend

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