I can't help you if your whatsis won't work, people (Especially if it's a refrigerator); I have no experience with appliances, and I haven't been involved with H&AC service and repair since March 08, 1996 (Thank the Lord); I always send a "standard" reply to appliance questions and H&AC "Service and Repair" questions (about 20 a month), so if you want to know why your whatsis isn't working like it used to, ask someone else. A lot of my answers arenít read by the questioners; in that event, I always send reminders to read the answers for a month or more (the word "idiots" comes to mind - actually there's another more appropriate word, but discretion prevents its use here). If you have questions about how big a unit you need, if one room's warmer than the others, if you want an opinion oas to scope of work on bids received, etc. just ask. Do visit www.askweldin.com, there's a lot of good information on sizing, ductwork, efficiency, as well as some techniques accomplished DIY-ers can use to troubleshoot and improve their H&AC. Finally, I want to thank all of the kind, serious people whom I meet here: I enjoy working with you. My wife says I'm "snarky" from time to time; as for you others, please use your imagination as to the responses swirling on the snarky side of my brain when I read your questions.
53 years in the business. See www.askweldin.com
B of ME U of D 1965, numerous classes, seminars and a lot of "Hands On" learning since.
Helping homeowners who've gotten a raw deal. Really.
I would love to be put out of work because the industry cleans up its act.
Contractors frequently (deliberately?) misdiagnose ductwork problems as insufficient cooling: Some rooms are not cooling, so the system must be too small; it's good business for a contractor. In fact, I've never seen an undersized residential system; the most frequent problem is "Too Much Equipment, Too Little Ductwork". I normally reduce cooling capacity when I develop an Improvement Plan.
Installing ductwork is a labor intensive operation, and many contractors profit by doing it too quickly. The end result is energy intensive: Conditioned air leaks to/from unconditioned spaces, too much heat is gained/lost because of improper insulation, rooms are overheated/overcooled because the system can't be balanced, etc.
There's only ONE tee involved, 8x7x5 using the reducers. Attach the outlets to the 7 and 5 using appropriate "boot" fittings. Three screws per round duct joint, and seal with a UL181 tape (look for
You can use an adhesive fitting to connect the 8 to the plenum. You'll have to use a tee in the 8 to supply the 5 and 7, as it's difficult to seal a saddle fitting when it's only 1" smaller than the main
Hello Steve! I have no problem with a floor return. The only "trick" to putting one in is construct a metal box beneath the grille and then connect a new duct to the SIDE of the box, so the box acts
Colleen: Sorry to hear about your difficulties. As you read, I haven't been involved in service and repair since March, 1996. That was before the ECM became widely used in the industry. https://en
Sandi: Don't know about your thermostat, but a lot of them operate at three cycles per hour (3 CPH), a cycle being 60 minutes/hour divided by 3 CPH = 20 minutes. A cycle is the sum of the on and off
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