I can't help you if your whatsis won't work, people (Especially if it's a refrigerator); I have no experience with appliances, and I haven't been involved with H&AC service and repair since March 08, 1996 (Thank the Lord); I always send a "standard" reply to appliance questions and H&AC "Service and Repair" questions (about 20 a month), so if you want to know why your whatsis isn't working like it used to, ask someone else. A lot of my answers arenít read by the questioners; in that event, I always send reminders to read the answers for a month or more (the word "idiots" comes to mind - actually there's another more appropriate word, but discretion prevents its use here). If you have questions about how big a unit you need, if one room's warmer than the others, if you want an opinion oas to scope of work on bids received, etc. just ask. Do visit www.askweldin.com, there's a lot of good information on sizing, ductwork, efficiency, as well as some techniques accomplished DIY-ers can use to troubleshoot and improve their H&AC. Finally, I want to thank all of the kind, serious people whom I meet here: I enjoy working with you. My wife says I'm "snarky" from time to time; as for you others, please use your imagination as to the responses swirling on the snarky side of my brain when I read your questions.
53 years in the business. See www.askweldin.com
B of ME U of D 1965, numerous classes, seminars and a lot of "Hands On" learning since.
Helping homeowners who've gotten a raw deal. Really.
I would love to be put out of work because the industry cleans up its act.
Contractors frequently (deliberately?) misdiagnose ductwork problems as insufficient cooling: Some rooms are not cooling, so the system must be too small; it's good business for a contractor. In fact, I've never seen an undersized residential system; the most frequent problem is "Too Much Equipment, Too Little Ductwork". I normally reduce cooling capacity when I develop an Improvement Plan.
Installing ductwork is a labor intensive operation, and many contractors profit by doing it too quickly. The end result is energy intensive: Conditioned air leaks to/from unconditioned spaces, too much heat is gained/lost because of improper insulation, rooms are overheated/overcooled because the system can't be balanced, etc.
Len: No space??? I can't believe that: A single person could easily get by on a small electric water heater set on a shelf, installed in a closet or whatever. If the boiler's cast iron, it's just
Len: The baseboard probably needs 180F in very cold weather. Your Mom is way behind the times, both in terms of personnel safety and energy use: A tempering valve has been required for decades to
Scott: Never buy more capacity than you now have. If you have rooms that are too hot or too cold, that's due to unresolved duct problems, not insufficient capacity. Go back to the guys proposing 2-1/2
Excellent question! My website has a page on filtration, so you might want to check that (see note at bottom). Generally, you want the lowest "PD" (pressure drop) for a given MERV rating. PD is proportional
Your thermostat is "Line Voltage" (120V or 240V) as opposed to "Low Voltage" (24V), and I don't know of any line voltage digital stats (the ones I've dealt with are 24V). Bottom line: You'll cook a low
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