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I can't help you if your whatsis won't work, people (Especially if it's a refrigerator); I have no experience with appliances, and I haven't been involved with H&AC service and repair since March 08, 1996 (Thank the Lord); I reject appliance questions and H&AC "Service and Repair" questions (about 18 a week), so if you want to know why your whatsis isn't working like it used to, ask someone else. I delete answers that are unread after one week (about three a month). If you have questions about how big a unit you need, if one room's warmer than the others, if you want an opinion on bids received, etc. just ask. Do visit askweldin.com, there's a lot of good information on sizing, ductwork, efficiency, as well as some techniques accomplished DIY-ers can use to troubleshoot and improve their H&AC. Finally, I want to thank all of the kind, serious people whom I meet here; I enjoy working with you.
50+ years in the business. See askweldin.com
B of ME U of D 1965, numerous classes and seminars since.
Helping homeowners who've gotten a raw deal. Really.
I would love to be put out of work because the industry cleans up its act.
Contractors frequently (deliberately?) misdiagnose ductwork problems as insufficient cooling: The house is not cooling, so the system must be too small; it's good business for a contractor. In fact, I've never seen an undersized residential system; the most frequent problem is "Too Much Equipment, Too Little Ductwork". I normally reduce cooling capacity when I develop an Improvement Plan.
Installing ductwork is a labor intensive operation, and many contractors profit by doing it too quickly. The end result is energy intensive: Conditioned air leaks into unconditioned spaces, too much heat is gained/lost because of improper insulation, rooms are overheated/overcooled because the system can't be balanced, etc. When efficient equipment is used, I say it's "wasting energy efficiently".
Damodar: I assume this is a residential cooling load calculation. It is not normally necessary to go beyond the Manual J default loads, but if they're doing a lot of cooking every day, you could add
Lynn: Thanks so much for thinking of me. Unfortunately I don't do appliance questions (My knowledge and experience is that of a homeowner who hires repairmen when the time arrives). My best advice
Jim: Think about it this way: The covers "insulate" the radiators and retard heat flow to the space; in that sense, the heating is less efficient. Having said that, I doubt you'll see measurable savings
Doug: Let's start with the thermostat in the hall: The stair to the first floor is also in the hall, right? Do you think heat from the first floor will warm the hall and fool the thermostat (DUH)? Move
Gary: Directly as the temperature difference between indoors and outdoors. No. See first answer. 7/19 +/-. Fred PS: We've seen problems with variable speed not being set up correctly; do verify
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