I can't help you if your whatsis won't work, people (Especially if it's a refrigerator); I have no experience with appliances, and I haven't been involved with H&AC service and repair since March 08, 1996 (Thank the Lord); I always send a "standard" reply to appliance questions and H&AC "Service and Repair" questions (about 20 a month), so if you want to know why your whatsis isn't working like it used to, ask someone else. A lot of my answers arenít read by the questioners; in that event, I always send reminders to read the answers for a month or more (the word "idiots" comes to mind - actually there's another more appropriate word, but discretion prevents its use here). If you have questions about how big a unit you need, if one room's warmer than the others, if you want an opinion oas to scope of work on bids received, etc. just ask. Do visit www.askweldin.com, there's a lot of good information on sizing, ductwork, efficiency, as well as some techniques accomplished DIY-ers can use to troubleshoot and improve their H&AC. Finally, I want to thank all of the kind, serious people whom I meet here: I enjoy working with you. My wife says I'm "snarky" from time to time; as for you others, please use your imagination as to the responses swirling on the snarky side of my brain when I read your questions.
53 years in the business. See www.askweldin.com
B of ME U of D 1965, numerous classes, seminars and a lot of "Hands On" learning since.
Helping homeowners who've gotten a raw deal. Really.
I would love to be put out of work because the industry cleans up its act.
Contractors frequently (deliberately?) misdiagnose ductwork problems as insufficient cooling: Some rooms are not cooling, so the system must be too small; it's good business for a contractor. In fact, I've never seen an undersized residential system; the most frequent problem is "Too Much Equipment, Too Little Ductwork". I normally reduce cooling capacity when I develop an Improvement Plan.
Installing ductwork is a labor intensive operation, and many contractors profit by doing it too quickly. The end result is energy intensive: Conditioned air leaks to/from unconditioned spaces, too much heat is gained/lost because of improper insulation, rooms are overheated/overcooled because the system can't be balanced, etc.
The M/N's indicate a Trane air handler (indoor unit) and (I think) a Trane heat pump (outdoor unit), probably dating from when the house was built. Service life is 15 years, so the previous owner did quite
You need to blank off the opening in the return - Sometimes I wonder what people were thinking. Yes, you could connect the register to the end of the main. The register should point down to get the
Add a 10x4 register, installed in a 90 degree register boot connected to the side of the main through a 6" adhesive collar with damper (you can google any terms you don't understand, the parts should be
A heat pump looks just like an AC on the outside. Inside, though, there are additional components that permit the AC to "run backwards" in the winter, removing heat from the outdoor air and adding it to
First 800 SF/2.5 Tons = 320 SF/Ton, way too much cooling. Buy a 2 ton or 1-1/2. The SF/Ton should be no less than 400 for a poorly constructed home with bad ductwork to more than 1,200 SF/Ton with today's
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