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Boat Repair/Everett Peacock
All Reviews from Users
Column Headings: K = Knowledgeability C = Clarity of Response T = Timeliness P = Politeness
N = Nominated for Expert of the Month
| Date | User | K | C | T | P | N | Comments |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2009-11-23 | Larry | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | Thanks again for your information. You were a big help. I will have couple of spare relays from now on thanks to your advise. L.B. Hare |
| 2009-11-18 | Larry | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | This was great informaton. I found the screw you said would release the motor but best of all swapping the relays made it go up and down. I don`t understand why this works as the new relay would not work in the up relay. Thanks again for this good information. L.B. Hare |
| 2009-11-09 | Curt | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | No | |
| 2009-11-06 | Jerry | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | No | Thank you for your response. It will help me in looking at it further. I didn't want to fool around with just guessing how it works. |
| 2009-11-06 | frederick | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | thanks for quick and more important accurate answer. |
| 2009-11-02 | John | 10 | 10 | 8 | 10 | No | |
| 2009-11-02 | David | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | No | Thank you! You were correct, the problem was the trim motor. I removed the two screws that hold it down and upon removal noted a stuck brush. I polished the armature, freed up the brushes and managed to reassemble it by putting small allen wrenches through the area where the wires go into the motor to hold the brushes out. The trim works beautifully now! Thank you for taking the time to answer my question - David. |
| 2009-10-27 | Ron | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | No | Thank you for your quick responce! Very much appreciated! |
| 2009-10-24 | Randy | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | No | already adjusted cables, reverse will not ingage, thanks. time to take it to the experts! |
| 2009-10-22 | Jim | 10 | 2 | 10 | 10 | No | Everett did not quite finish answering my question or I just did not receive all of it. Would also like his point of view about the outside of the trim motor case beaning somewhat MAGNETIZED. Is this normal? |
| 2009-10-21 | Mike | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | No | Thank you for your assistance. I has helped me determine how I should approach my problem. |
| 2009-10-21 | Scott | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | No | Thank you for the quick reply for my gas tank problem. |
| 2009-10-21 | Todd | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | No | I will try it and see if it works. Thanks. |
| 2009-10-20 | gary | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | cheers thanks for your help, |
| 2009-10-19 | robert | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | No | |
| 2009-10-17 | Jamie | 10 | 9 | 10 | 10 | No | Thank you, I will try this and hope for the best |
| 2009-10-16 | Fraser | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | No | Very prompt responce |
| 2009-10-16 | andrew | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | No | thankyou very much for your advice |
| 2009-10-12 | woody | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | No | That's what was done cleaned out everything from the filter back to the fuel rails. Motor still wouldn't fire until fuel rail removal and cranking engine until fuel was visable spraying from both of them. Reinstalled them and motor fired and ran 100%. There must of been air trapped not allowing fuel to enter injectors, anyway it worked and we're going fishing now. Thanks for the reply. |
| 2009-10-12 | don | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | No | |
| 2009-10-12 | Keith | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | No | |
| 2009-10-11 | corey | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | No | Thanks for your response. |
| 2009-10-11 | Scott | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | No | New Fuel Lines have been installed, cleaned carbs and adjusted floats, still had the same problem, but I finally tried something on a guess and it was right, had BAD FUEL/OIL, drained fuel out and put in more using a different brand of 2 cycle oil, problem solved, believe it or not, it was the brand of 2 cycle oil that was bad! Thanks for your help. Thanks Scott |
| 2009-10-01 | sam | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | Very knowledgeable. |
| 2009-09-30 | Ken | 10 | 10 | 4 | 4 | No | Use a pic?? Dumb answer. After lots of research and talking to several local mechanics, they suggested a special tool called a slide hammer. 3 jaws insert into the brass part of the seal then a weight bangs against the opposite end forcing the seal out of its pressed in position. Another suggestion was to get a mini die grinder and a magnifying glass and slowly grind the inside of the brass part being very careful not to nick the cast aluminum. Then try to crimp the seal inwards to reduce pressure on the sides to slip it out. Another was to take a small punch and slowly ding around the circumfrance to reduce the diameter then slip it out. I am in the process of finding a slide hammer with a puller with jaws small enough to fit into the 5/16" hole. |
| 2009-09-30 | NJ | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | No | |
| 2009-09-29 | Paul | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | No | Thank you, I had a suspicion it may be electrical but hadn't considered the coils just the leads and plugs etc. I shall follow up on that and I do appreciate the advice. |
| 2009-09-29 | Jimmy | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | |
| 2009-09-29 | bernie | 9 | 7 | 10 | 6 | No | |
| 2009-09-28 | Steve | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | You guys are great, Thanks for the help, now just to find someone that knows something about this might be kit..... |
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Everett Peacock
Expertise
Marine repair questions
Experience
35 years experience boatmansbargains.com
Organizations
Taught Marine electronics at NOVA CC IN ALEXANDRIA VA
Education/Credentials
certified, Yamaha outboards,yamaha stern drives, Mercury outboard, Mercruiser, Evinrude. Johnson, Mariner, suzuki, Volvo Penta, Honda,
Awards and Honors
service exelence award ( yamaha)
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