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Woodworking/Greg Scholl
All Reviews from Users
Column Headings: K = Knowledgeability C = Clarity of Response T = Timeliness P = Politeness
N = Nominated for Expert of the Month
| Date | User | K | C | T | P | N | Comments |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2009-11-20 | Maureen | 10 | 10 | 8 | 10 | Yes | |
| 2009-11-20 | Trudi | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | |
| 2009-11-20 | Elinor | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | |
| 2009-11-17 | Lori | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | Greg answered within an hour - wow! And he further explained a term in specifics for me since I am not knowledgeable in this area. Glad he is! |
| 2009-11-17 | Lori | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | As we are running out of time with cold weather coming to Ohio, I was thrilled to get an answer back in less than 24 hours. Greg was very knowlegable, told us the exact type of product to use now, and gave an answer that was perfect for the time we have yet this Nov with an answer applying to the spring when we have more time, too. Thanks Greg!! |
| 2009-11-16 | Sarah | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | Thanks for the information! My next project will not involve Minwax stain other than perhaps their gel stains. |
| 2009-11-16 | Michael | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | Thanks for the info. Actually, after posting that question, i started thinking some more on it. I was able to adjust it. By squeezing in and loosening all 6 bolts holding that rod i mentioned (Nut on the bottom of the plate and Phillips screw driver on the top made it a challenge). I was able to tweak the saw just enough to get it about as straight as it is going to ever get based on how its made. Thanks again for the response. |
| 2009-11-15 | Betty | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | Not only was my question answered quickly and professionally, but the added tip of using a fan to speed the drying time was a much needed hint as we are currently waiting for the stain to dry. Thanks so much for the help. |
| 2009-11-13 | J.Pajula | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | That helped a LOT, thank you. Gloss lacquer + catalyzed lacquer are available here, but I was very unsure if they can be used for this purpose so I chose Danish oil. I assume I can make the final finish for those products you suggested in a very same way it is done for cars: Kinda rudding compound but extremely fine one. Kudos and thank you very much! I appreciate people like you VERY much: Always voluntarily willing to help other people. Best Regards Jari Pajula borg@sci.fi Finland |
| 2009-11-13 | Debbie | 10 | 8 | 10 | 10 | No | First I don't have a comparison to choose this gentleman for Volunteer of the Month although his answer was very helpful. We were wanting to wait to formulate a followup question when we (my husband and I)had the time and opportunity to check into the product suggested we use. Thank you to Greg for your help on this. When seemingly someone you pay in constructing your home does not do the job properly, it is so very frustrating to have to go back and correct especially when it will mean now protecting floors and furniture and painted walls and so on. Thanks again. Appreciate the obvious knowledge. |
| 2009-11-09 | Rich | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | Thank you so much for your time and advice Greg. I agree about the tack cloth, that was my #1 suspect. |
| 2009-11-09 | Wendi | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | Thank you so much for your help. I bought a water based stripper, to try on on of the smaller boards. The person who gave the wood, did have that wood she used, planed. Once again, thank you for your help. |
| 2009-11-07 | Tim | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | Outstanding advice, thank you |
| 2009-11-06 | Gina | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | |
| 2009-11-05 | Kevin | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | No | Thanks very much. I probably will step up to a better saw in January. Maybe DeWalt or Bosch. This was just to see if I'm serious begore I spend serious money. (By the way, I did buy a miter saw to get past the issue - Sears - it works well.) Thanks again. |
| 2009-11-02 | Ken | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | Hi Greg, Thank you for your quick and informed response. I was kind of afraid that would be the answer since there is not much wood to work with and it is quite a bit off center. I think I will just do what you suggest and finish the table, I do not think it is worth the expense of making a new leg. Thanks again and regards, Ken. |
| 2009-10-29 | David | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | No | Very quick and thorough response. (Especially appreciated, because my question was rather simplistic.) Thanks for your patience, Greg! |
| 2009-10-29 | Kristin Maxson | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | Thanks Greg, I filed your advice, so I can try to use your suggestions. I have used Shellac, but it does not wipe down well, it leaves streaks. Perhaps it was my supply. Thanks for all your time on this. You sure have a wealth of information. Since I place multiple French Finishes, the oil and varnish does separate over night, leaving oil. I wipe down pure varnish, across the finish which has traces of oil and hardened varnish; if it becomes tacky I use a Silver Dollar of oil to smooth it out. I do this again and again. I just restored a Cylinder Davenport Desk. The old varnish was easy to soften and buff out, much easier than Shellac. I work with very old furniture, which needs the extra oil seal, because the old wood has oxidized to a point of material separation. I will try your methods. I assume you are using your shellac with a French Finish method of wiping? Varnish with brush is just not the way to go, and I understand why Shellac is preferred, since a smaller layer will give you more protection than varnish could. Respectfully, Kristin |
| 2009-10-28 | Kristin Maxson | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | Thanks Greg, You answer makes me feel like I am not the only one out there that sees the problematic change. You are much more understanding than I. I feel that it is beyond VOC, underlined with lobby control and patent wars. The reason I use spar varnish, is because it is the only choice out there, and now this has been taken off the shelves. Spar varnish gives an oil luster that shellac will not. It is also easy to buff and polish and I only use the thinnest coat, so the extra oil soaks in the wood or my rag. If I change to ordering my supply on line and by mail, this will add to the empty self problem. I have been going to Michaels, and I buy their spray varnish for oil paintings, which I spray onto my rag. The can is not good for our land fills, but it is a solution. I did mean repel. Word did a change in auto spell check due to a typo. The synthetic oils do not bond well, like natural oils. There is a world of difference when buffing a surface. Gum just does not buff well. The ..... |
| 2009-10-26 | dick | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | i will pass on that data thank you |
| 2009-10-25 | Brian | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | Thanks Greg. I'll just leave the four "tens" as they are. I considered Gorilla glue to be more appropriate over a radiator for its ability to cope with the high temperatures. Unfortunately I have not used it before and am thus not familiar with how spreadable it is and the best method of applying it. But I will give it a go. I'm sure it is the same as you have in the States. I'll report back on completion. Regards Brian Baldwin. |
| 2009-10-21 | Caroline | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | Many thanks for your time in helping me find a solution to the problem I had with oiling the oak table. |
| 2009-10-16 | dick | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | |
| 2009-10-14 | Daniel | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | thank you very helpfull |
| 2009-10-09 | tanner | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | No | Thank you for your comments. I guess having a wood door means constant maintenance. I will take your advice |
| 2009-10-09 | Shaun | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | |
| 2009-10-07 | Gary | 8 | 8 | 10 | 10 | No | |
| 2009-10-06 | Andres Lin | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes | Thanks very much, the project turned out very well. Thanks for your kindness, fast response and above all, helpfulness. A+ |
| 2009-10-05 | Alex | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | No | |
| 2009-09-29 | sam | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | Yes |
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Answers by Expert:
Greg Scholl
Expertise
Questions on Woodworking, wood finishing and refinishing of all kinds, repairing furniture and wooden objects,Architectural details, Woodturning, carving, tool usage, product usage, some chemistry as it applies to woodworking and related interests,cabinet making and furniture construction/design, etc. I have experience with all manners of colorants, finishes, paints, stains, dyes, glazes, and coatings,wood species recognition,usage,etc.
Experience
Fine furniture restorer and cabinet maker for over 30 years,serving high end Antique dealers, Interior designers, Collectors in the CT area. Sold, built, serviced, setup Home,Industrial and Commercial stationary woodworking tools for a major tool retailer in CT. for three years, sold hand and power tools, and offered instruction on use and care as well.I even have some Trade show Demo experience.
Organizations
none at this time.
Publications
Published in Fine Woodworking Magazine (12/97), included on Fine Woodworkings first "Best of Fine Woodworking" CD-ROM (2002) ...("27 year compilation of expert know-how"), local newspapers as well
Education/Credentials
Art School at Silvermine Guild in Norwalk, CT., 9 year apprenticeship in a European run Cabinet and Restoration shop in CT., various classes on subjects having to do with the field. Seminars by Major tool manufacturers, Delta, Powermatic, Performax, Porter Cable, Skil/Bosch to name a few.
Past/Present Clients
Many varied clients including work on Martha Stewarts' Westport, CT. show house, many fine Antique dealers and private collectors in and around Fairfield County and in Woodbury, CT.(the Antiques capital of CT.)
Consulting for area Painting/Decorating and Building contractors on non painting issues..(staining, wood prep.,clear finishing, floor restoration and architectural detail restoration and repair, etc.), local Museums and Historical Societies.
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